Consumption Calculation Of Basic Long Sleeve Shirt For Woven Items
In the garment trade, consumption means the number of raw materials with a view to determining the price of a garment. We can calculate the consumption of basic long sleeve shirts in two ways:
First system
Length X Width
Formula = ——————————————-
Fabric width X Fabric Unit
Collar
Length = 16” + 3.25” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 20.25”
Width = 1.75” + 1” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 3.75”
Collar band
Length X Width
Formula = ————————————————– X 2
Fab. Width X 36” (Fab. Unit)
Length = 18” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 19”
Width = 1.5” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 2.5”
So, Consumption = (19” X 2.5”)/ (44” X 36”) X 2 = 95/1584” = 0.05” = 0.06 yd
Yoke
Length X Width
Formula = ——————————————— X 2
Fab. Width X 36” (Fab. Unit)
Length = 24” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 25”
Width = 4” + 1” (Round) + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 6”
So, Consumption = (25” X 6”)/(44” X 36”) X 2 = 300/1584 = 0.189393 = 0.19 yd
Back part
CBL (Centre back length) – Shoulder width = (Length X Width)/(Fab. Width X 36”)
or, 34.5 – 4” = 30.5”
Length = 30.5” + 1” (sewing allowance) = 31.5”
Width = 24” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 25”
Consumption = (31.5” X 25”)/(44” X 36”) = 787.5/1584 = 0.49715909 = 0.50 yd
Front part
Formula = (length X Width)/(Fabric width X 36”)
Centre front length = 32” X 1” (Sewing allowance) = 33”
Width (Chest) = 24” + 1” (Sewing allowance) + 3” (Pleat W) = 28”
So, Consumption = (33” X 28”)/(44” X 36”) = 924”/1584” = 0.583333 = 0.59 yd
Sleeve
Sleeve length = 23” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 24”
Sleeve width = (23” + 11.5”)/2 = 34.5”/2 = 17.25” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 18.25”
So, Consumption = (24” X 18.25”)/(44” X 36”) X 2 = 876”/1584” = 0.553 yd
Cuff
Cuff length = 10.5” + 1” = 11.5”
Cuff width = 2.5” + 1” = 3.5”
So, consumption = (11.5” X 3.5” X 4”)/(44” X 36”) = 161/1584 = 0.10 yd
Pocket length = 6.5” + 1” (Sewing allowance) + 1” Pleat W = 8.5”
Pocket width = 5.5” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 6.5”
So, Consumption = (8.5” X 6.5”)/(44” X 36”) = 55.25/1584 = 0.03488 = 0.035 yd
Total fabrics needed
- Collar = 0.10 yd
- Collar band = 0.06 yd
- Back yoke = 0.19 yd
- Back part = 0.50 yd
- Front part = 0.59 yd
- Sleeve = 0.553 yd
- Cuff = 0.10 yd
- Pocket = 0.035 yd
So, total = 2.128 yards
Total fabrics = 2.128 + 5% (Wastage) = 2.128 + 0.1064 = 2.2344 = 2.235 yards (Ans.)
Second system
It is called shortcut formula for quick consumption
Total length = Body length + Sleeve length + Sewing allowance (In case of wash Garments. Washing allowance to be added with the above)
Body width = Chest width + Sewing allowance (In case of wash Garments. Washing allowance to be added with the above)
Formula = (Length X Width)/(Fab. Width X Fab. Unit)
Body length = 32” + 1” (Sewing allowance) = 33”
Sleeve length = 23” + 2.5” (Cuff width) + 1.5 (Sewing allowance) = 27”
Total length = 33” + 27” = 60”
Body width = 48” + 2” (S. A) + 3” Pleat W = 53”
So, Consumption = (60” X 53”)/(44” X 36”) = 3180/1584 = 2.007575 = 2.0075 + 5% (Wastage)
= 2.0076 + 0.10038
= 2.10798 + 0.95 (Shoulder one part)
= 2.20298 = 2.20 yards (Ans.)
